BÉHEN means sister in Hindi. The name could not be better chosen, since it was born out of the union of women’s communities from all over the world. In addition to telling their stories, this Portuguese sustainable, zero-waste, ethically made brand presents the stories behind the fabrics reused to produce each unique design.

Bedspreads transformed into coats, embroidered tablecloths reborn as tops — the BÉHEN F/W 20–21 collection is the change that fashion has been waiting for. Presented at ModaLisboa Fashion Week and launched on Instagram, Joana Duarte’s brand comes to life with the transformation of her grandmother’s old bedspreads and other pieces that she bought at flea markets while studying aboard.

Inspired by women wearing saris, Berber tribes and other peoples who stole the designer’s heart, BÉHEN’s first pieces were produced in partnership with Aga Khan Portugal, a foundation dedicated to fostering social cohesion in communities shaped by migration. Joana Duarte believes in the power of design to reinvent an industry that needs to start valuing time and people above all else.

BÉHEN describes itself as an “experimental project in clothing and objects”. More specifically, what do you offer and how do you develop your brand?

Joana Duarte: BÉHEN is a project that goes far beyond clothing. A project that is not only about fashion, that believes in the power of design to transform an industry urgently seeking new solutions. It is experimental in the sense of being a work in progress. But it is also a challenge because working with old materials makes the whole process very unusual — the sourcing is done in antique shops and flea markets. There have even been women who shared their layette with me. 

The production is a work in progress. Everything made in very small workshops by women’s communities all over the world. It is a process that takes a long time to come to life. But it is also what sets the brand apart. Above all it is about creativity, valuing the importance of time and the beauty of seeing the process through the manipulation of fabrics.

Many women believed in this project with a sparkle in their eyes and their sleeves rolled up. They were ‘sisters’ dressed in saris who sang to me in Hindi under the sun in Rajasthan. Women from all over the world, making pieces that are as magical and beautiful as they are themselves.

JD: Anyone who wants to hear the colourful stories and adventures of saris, Berber tribes and layette fabrics.

What does BÉHEN mean?

JD: BÉHEN means sister in Hindi. The name tells a love story for fabrics as old as time, materialised in a brand. Many women believed in this project with a sparkle in their eyes and their sleeves rolled up. They were ‘sisters’ dressed in saris who sang to me in Hindi under the sun in Rajasthan. Women from all over the world, making pieces that are as magical and beautiful as they are themselves.

Do you sell your products online? How have you structured the business so far?

JD: I am currently developing an online shop that will be available worldwide very soon. For now, most of my sales are made via Instagram.

At the time, I was very interested in political art due to experiences gained through volunteering for several social causes, such as the migratory crisis. This interest led me towards sustainability and ethical production.

Your brand did not go unnoticed on social networks, especially Instagram. It tells us stories through beautiful photographs taken by your friends. Were they free to explore their own creativity? Was it fun to do this collective work?

JD: I am fortunate to have a group of friends who have supported the project since the beginning. They are definitely a fundamental part of BÉHEN. The starting point is always the rawest part, there is room to create and explore without major restrictions. So, clearly, there was creative freedom and a lot of fun in the mix. In one way or another, everyone contributed to the final result and without them, it would not have been the same.

Tell us a little about your professional career. How did all this start?

JD: BÉHEN started without a name and without me realising it in my room in London when I was doing my master’s degree at Kingston University. At the time, I was very interested in political art due to experiences gained through volunteering for several social causes, such as the migratory crisis. This interest led me towards sustainability and ethical production.

During my master’s degree, I mainly focused on researching possible alternatives to the use of raw materials and on finding solutions to the current problems in the fashion industry. This research took me to India, where I spent three months interning at an ethical production company that works with Patagonia.

Do you think this experience guided you on the path that you decided to take?

JD: India had a great impact on me personally and as a designer. It was where I learned about simplicity in all aspects of life and the importance of valuing the smallest of things. This especially applies to fabrics. In India people believe fabrics are part of the history of the wearer, making them extremely valuable and they must be reused.

When I returned, I quickly found the same belief in our Portuguese culture. In Portugal, old fabrics are kept religiously and passed on from one generation to the next. So, it was from this concept that BÉHEN was born and took shape. Currently, I continue to work with communities from around the world, and my productions are made in partnership with the Aga Khan Foundation.

What are your expectations for the future?

JD: Right now, I am focused on optimising production, as I work with many limitations in terms of materials. In the future I also hope to start focusing on the creation of objects in partnership with artisans and artists in Portugal.

It will never be just fashion or objects. It will be whatever I feel is necessary to continue telling the story: mine and the story of the culture to which the item belongs and the woman who made it happen. I do not like to impose restrictions in terms of creation and the result — whether it is clothes, an object or even a poem.

What kind of connections with other creative areas do you have in mind? 

JD: Collaborations with other artists and designers are one of BÉHEN’s core values. As I said previously, the brand was born from the desire to travel the world and bring communities together. This desire extends to other areas because stories can and should be told in different formats.

It will never be just fashion or objects. It will be whatever I feel is necessary to continue telling the story: mine and the story of the culture to which the item belongs and the woman who made it happen. I do not like to impose restrictions in terms of creation and the result — whether it is clothes, an object or even a poem.

Do you think the traditional fashion show is outdated?

JD: Now, more than ever, there is a need to look for and experiment with new formats. It does not mean that fashion shows should not happen, but it is necessary to rethink whether it makes sense to do it in two to four seasons/collections. I would like to finish by posing the question that started all of this: Is the quantity of everything around us more important than time? For me, time is important, as it takes time to create. ♥

Photography
Dana Panina (1, 2, 4, 6, 11, 14, 15), Duarte Figueiredo (3, 5, 7, 8, 12, 13, 17), Frederico Om (9, 10, 16)

Model
Lena Bistrova, Just Models