After a three-year break, HIBU was back at ModaLisboa Fashion Week to present the hype streetwear aesthetic that has always set it apart. Inspired by the de-construction of workwear, the Portuguese brand decided to strip things back to the essentials with ‘no gender, no season’ concept at heart.

The conventional protocols were broken when audience members stood up to put on the brand’s garments that had been strategically left on the runway before the beginning of the fashion show. Moments later, they changed clothes among themselves, showing the versatility and pragmatism of the reborn brand.

Founded in 2012 by the then recently graduated Marta Gonçalves, HIBU immediately generated a new buzz. Known for being one of the first brands to introduce the genderless concept in Portugal, it soon proved to be irreverent and fearless. However, the brand and the young fashion designer pressed pause.

With a more sustainable and global strategy for her brand, Marta Gonçalves decided to take over HIBU creative direction and work alongside producers and manufacturers in Portugal. Once again her collection stood out for its genderless, timeless and contemporary essentials.

The next step is to conquer the international market and keep engaging with new consumers, following on from what has already been happening in Portugal. It was right after announcing the launch of HIBU's online store, that Marta Gonçalves agreed to share with Prinçipal ModaPortugal what the revived brand is all about.

For the first time, we did factory production with this collection. All the pieces were manufactured in Portugal, which was one of the important steps that I felt that it was necessary to take.

It was a big surprise to have HIBU back at ModaLisboa. Why now and what are the main differences with the past?

Marta Gonçalves: For me it was important to take a break, to rethink what steps to take in order to grow and cement what HIBU represents as a brand and the concept it presents. Starting with a need to think about sustainability and our role in the fast and disposable fashion consumption cycle, I wanted to relaunch the brand with a design of genderless essentials, timeless contemporaries that may continue in future collections in different colours, patterns or materials. These essentials serve as an affordable foundation for the brand and can be combined with more exclusive pieces.

For the first time, we did factory production with this collection. All the pieces were manufactured in Portugal, which was one of the important steps that I felt that was necessary to take. These are the main differences between the HIBU we know from the beginning and HIBU today. The concept remains the same, but the goal is to explore a more streetwear style, designed for the high street market, available to a wider audience.

Royal blue is an intermediate shade, but not everyone take the risk of wearing it. The green was an obsession of mine, more daring for those who enjoy the full look, but also works when combined with more neutral colours.

The collection is inspired by workwear. Why do you choose to explore this clothing segment?

MG: Since the collection’s goals are comfort, durability and utility, I felt it made sense to deconstruct and update workwear pieces as a starting point. Workwear has a historic link to a more casual-streetwear vibe. Its silhouettes and materials easily relate to this ‘no gender’ concept.

In addition to materials, colours are also very important in the collection.

MG: Black and white were the starting points, being versatile colours that most people wear. I knew I wanted to work with monochromatic looks and powerful colours. The collection has no patterns and was designed to be easily combined with other pieces. Royal blue is an intermediate shade, but not everyone takes the risk of wearing it. The green was an obsession of mine, more daring for those who enjoy the full look, but also works when combined with more neutral colours. In the process, I ended up realising that these four colours combine very well with each other.

Who is this collection for?

MG: I feel and believe it is for everyone. That anyone would be able to wear at least one piece from this collection.

Your pieces were automatically available for purchase. Are you planning to work this way in the future? 

MG: I would like to have the pieces available for sale right after the presentations, but of course I’m dependent on the possibilities for production. I also want to have my pieces available in physical stores every now and then, which also implies different logistics. Right now I’m trying to explore this field.

Do you think this "see now, buy now" strategy could be the future of independent fashion?

MG: I think it can work if the brands already have a wide audience. We have more and more tools at our disposal to create, disseminate and sell our work directly to the client. But of course it’s always difficult for a new brand to grow and establish itself on the market.

I believe there can be a much bigger connection between the customer and the garment than in a regular fashion show. It generally depends on what each brand wants to convey.

Do you believe the fashion show as we know it will be outdated?

MG: I don’t think it’s outdated. However, in my opinion, it makes sense to present my pieces through other dimensions, relating them to other art forms. I believe there can be a much bigger connection between the customer and the garment than in a regular fashion show. It generally depends on what each brand wants to convey. I would like HIBU to become a multidisciplinary lifestyle brand.

What kind of connections with other fields do you want to explore in the future?

MG: It’s definitely a goal, from now on, to collaborate with other artists, regardless of whether they are textile designers, visual artists, musicians, etc. Whether it be designing clothes or even other objects. ♥