On the 8th of March 2020, ModaLisboa Insight presented the final phase of Sangue Novo – Young Designers Competition. Archie Dickens, Carolina Raquel, Federico Protto, Opiar (Artur Dias), Rita Carvalho and The Co.Re (Inês Coelho and Rachel Regent), were selected as finalists in the first phase of the contest in October 2018.

Their F/W19–20 collections opened the runway of Lisbon Fashion Week at Pavilhão Carlos Lopes. After analysing the fashion designers’ new work, the jury consisting of (from left to right on the header image) Danilo Venturi (director of Polimoda), Miguel Flor (president of the jury and creative director of Prinçipal magazine), Diane Pernet (founder and director of ASVOFF), Alfredo Oróbio (designer and founder of the Awaytomars brand), and Cláudia Barros (fashion director of Vogue Portugal), selected the winners.

Carolina Raquel was the winner of the ModaLisboa award for Best National Designer. The young designer received 3,500 Euros in prize money and a scholarship to undertake a master’s degree in Fashion Design or Collection Design at Polimoda in Florence.

The Best International Designer winner, Federico Protto, was awarded a three week residency at Tintex, 2,000 Euros prize money as well as being invited to present his next collection at the Workstation platform at the next edition of ModaLisboa.

The British designer Archie Dickens received the The Feeting Room Award and the opportunity to sell his collection at The Feeting Room stores in Lisbon and Porto.

The Collections

Carolina Raquel — A Complex Form

“A complex form” reflects on the implicit process in a sculptor’s mental approach involved in the act of carving a sculpture. In Carolina Raquel's collection aspects such as weight, pose, curvature, emptiness, tension, proportion, scale and gesture are balanced to acknowledge the inside and the outside of every shape.

Federico Protto — Muses

“What do we need and how do we want to live? What do garments need and how do they wanna live?”, Federico Protto asks. His collection “Muses” departs from convention, abandoning the image of how designers are traditionally expected to form their concepts. It represents the artist’s personal attempt to create a series of figures, driven by his Hispanic heritage and influences from his adolescence.

Archie Dickens — Fluxo 19

“Fluxo 19” is intended not just as a new collection for the season, but as a new selection of pieces to combine with old ones. It draws upon the ‘freedom of movement’ theme presented in the designer’s previous collection. Inspired by the ever-changing relationship between sea and sky, it represents the ultimate source of fluid movement — water — along with the fluid lines, present in ancient Greek sculptures and in naturally occurring forms such as corals.

The Co.Re — Harmonic Disturbance

The collection from creative duo Rachel Regent and Inês Coelho reflects on vibrations. According to the designers, colours, sounds and lights are responsible for all of our perceptions and without them our existence would be dull. “Harmonic Disturbance” celebrates the unappreciated beauty and sophistication of this sensorial phenomenon and how it shapes the world around us.

Rita Carvalho — Floragora

In mythology we find Flora as a representation of nature’s power. A perfect representation of beauty in ancient times. “But what is perfection now?”, explores Rita Carvalho. “Floragora” explores the harmony, the idealisation idealised and the identity shared by all creative beings. This collection investigates the deconstruction, asymmetry and disproportionality in the representation of an inverted aesthetic, proving that beautiful is no longer so harmonious.

OPIAR — La Petit Mort

Imagine if the concepts of heaven and hell didn’t exist and the idea of punishment or reward was cast aside. Artur Dias’ collection explores the limbo between life and death in a culture that predominantly believes that death is the end. Through a fusion of tradition and religious customs, made with materials belonging to our ancestors, “La Petit Mort” reflects on what the afterlife could be.

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