At a time when consumers are increasingly aware, conscious and curious, nothing is more important than disclosing what goes on behind the scenes in one of the world’s largest industries. Today fashion is more than just creating an identity and personal expression, it is about transparency, technological innovation as well as ethical, social and environmental sustainability. Portugal is aligned with these major industrial and social changes, presenting a fresh and sophisticated image in its new international campaign — Zona Industrial ModaPortugal.

While the new trends for Spring–Summer 2020 were being presented on the catwalks at Paris Fashion Week, the Portuguese industry exhibited its capacity in an initiative within the scope of ModaPortugal’s Strategy. The event was promoted by CENIT - Centre of Intelligence for the Textile Industry in partnership with ANIVEC - National Association of Clothing and Apparel Industry with the support of Compete 2020, where several Portuguese companies - among them  Calvelex, Riopele, Twintex, Paulo de Oliveira and Polopique — came together to discuss a sustainable and technologically advanced vision for this global sector. “Physically it was a group of companies, but it was truly representing thousands of enterprises, from a country that produces at the highest quality with state-of-the-art technology and with total respect for its workers” Bruno Mineiro, Director of Client Management at Twintex, describes.

“We brought the factory to fashion week for the first time, to show who and what is behind the collections presented, from spinning to the finished product”, César Araújo, CEO of Calvelex, tells us proudly. In the words of José Alexandre Oliveira, chair of the board of directors of Riopele, “Fashion is all about surprise, and although some consumers might have found it strange to find the Portuguese industry owners at this event, the initial impact of this campaign was tremendously successful”.

Producers are aware that consumers are not oblivious to the negative footprint of fast-fashion culture, so the companies ensure that the revolution within the industry to tackle this problem was already started several generations ago. Paulo Oliveira, director of the company Paulo de Oliveira, highlights that, “Portugal has companies of excellence, equipped with the most modern and innovative technology and with high technical capacity”. Luís Guimarães, president of Polopique, emphasises that, “It is essential for people to realise that the textile industry is not a bad industry, but rather a very specialised industry, environmentally aware and pleasant to work in”. The first Portuguese meeting in the City of Light was also the stage for a joint reflection on the future of ‘Made in Portugal’.

Paulo Oliveira, director of the company Paulo de Oliveira, highlights that, “Portugal has companies of excellence, equipped with the most modern and innovative technology and with high technical capacity”.

THE FLEXIBILITY OF PAULO DE OLIVEIRA

Founded in 1936 in Covilhã, Paulo de Oliveira is the largest wool fabric producing company in the Iberian Peninsula and one of the most modern and efficient production units in the world in its segment. It stands out for its vertical production — from spinning and weaving to dyeing and finishing — and also for its product innovation and constant technological modernisation. This speciality manufacturer employs more than 1,200 highly skilled workers in three shifts, 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. They ensure the production capacity of twenty-million square meters of fabric per year with exports exceeding 95%. The European market absorbs the largest share of production.

“With the industry evolving and at an unprecedented speed” Paulo Oliveira acknowledges that, “The coming years will be an intense and complex challenge, due to the enormous impact of structural changes in the consumer purchasing process, as well as in the transparency and fluidity of information”. Paulo de Oliveira’s director summarises the future of the Portuguese industry in one word: Flexibility. “The technological innovation — digitisation, artificial intelligence, automation and other new themes of Industry 4.0 — will require huge investments and the development of new workforce skills. It is quite obvious that if the change is fast, only those who are flexible will succeed”.

POLOPIQUE FOCUSES ON SUSTAINABLE MATERIALS

With more than 80 years of experience in the textile industry, the Polopique group stands out because of its complete vertical integration. This total control of the process — including spinning, weaving, knitting, finishing and tailoring—, together with the progressive investments in R&D, innovation and design, enables their client brands and designers to explore creativity in unlimited ways. This dynamism and versatility make Polopique a strong player in the textile and clothing sector on a global scale.

Luís Guimarães, president of the company, explains that technological innovation linked to sustainability is and will continue to be a major focus for this Portuguese company. In fact, the company is working on two new projects focused on sustainability. “Polopique has already started an organic cotton plantation project in Uganda, a joint venture with an English partner and is in the final preparations for the launch of a 100% linen spinning facility” the CEO confirms. Developed in partnership with a Belgian company, the production of flax thread intends to bring back a technology lost for over half a century in Europe.

Luís Guimarães tells us that his goal is to use only organic cotton by 2021, which would exceed the current internal policy of using a minimum of 50% of the natural raw material.

Both investments aim to expand the supply of organic and sustainable raw materials, increasingly sought after by customers around the world. Considered a benchmark in terms of environmental sustainability, Polopique has been investing in the installation of clean and efficient energy production technologies. In addition to the 2.1MW photovoltaic solar power panels and the investment in water treatment, reuse and waste recycling through its co-generation unit, the group has already reduced CO2 emissions by 30%. Luís Guimarães tells us that his goal is to use only organic cotton by 2021, which would exceed the current internal policy of using a minimum of 50% of the natural raw material.

Polopique aims to continue its strategy of sustained growth, contributing to an industry that is not only environmentally aware, but also economically and socially responsible. The 1,000 plus workers at this textile company receive wages above the national average and have several other benefits that promote the health and well-being of them and their families. Luís Guimarães believes that promoting of a good social environment is paramount to keep the team motivated and able to provide the best service to clients.

CALVELEX’ “DE-AUTOMATION”

Calvelex’ ambition is to establish itself as a world leader in the production of high-end women’s clothing and in its customer service. Their focus is to “de-automate” the industrial process, focusing on a niche market that demands a detail-oriented product, a detail that can only be achieved by hand. According to César Araújo, the company CEO and president of ANIVEC — the National Association of Clothing and Apparel Industry — the future depends on “being committed to quality and focusing more and more on handmade processes”.

To strengthen its position in the luxury market, Calvelex also specialises in co-creation and brand consulting services, in order to become a true business partner for each client. In order to be increasingly close to designers and creative and sales departments, it currently has offices in London, Dublin, Amsterdam, Macau and Dalian. Calvelex works in 20 countries, totalling more than a hundred brands with Europe, the USA and Asia as the main markets.

According to César Araújo, the company CEO and president of ANIVEC — the National Association of Clothing and Apparel Industry — the future depends on “being committed to quality and focusing more and more on handmade processes”.

Despite its main focus being business-to-business, Calvelex is starting to explore the business-to-consumer market. The acquisition of brands is a recent investment by the Portuguese company, which already has Frenken and Helen Mc Alinden, two International luxury brands produced in Portugal, in its portfolio. While the first is dedicated to “an urban woman, with a sophisticated and dynamic lifestyle, between 20 and 50 years old”, the second is for “a confident, elegant and more mature woman”, César adds.

With 35 years of experience in the business, Calvelex produces 3,100 pieces per day. However, the plan for the near future is to be able to reduce production, increasing the volume of billing. In addition to increasing the product value, Calvelex intends to invest more in the installation of solar panels, in reusing materials and in the circular economy. César Araújo says, “Sustainability is neither an obligation, nor a necessity, but a reality, which is part of the daily life of Portuguese companies and involves all our workers”. The mission is that clients continue to look to Calvelex for the 3 P’s it offers: People, Planet and Profitable.

TWINTEX’ DREAM OF INFINITE SUSTAINABILITY

Twintex recently established a new logistics centre in the Fundão region, a few kilometres away from the parent company. This new facility is the most recent step in the re-engineering of the new industrial layout. It covers 400 square metres and includes a raw materials warehouse, a cutting and thermal bonding department and a ready-to-ship product warehouse. Specialising in “haute couture” clothing, this Portuguese clothing company produces 3,600 items a day. These thousands of dresses, blazers, coats, skirts and trousers are destined for export, with the main markets being Germany, USA, Italy, France and the United Kingdom.

“Automatisms are gaining relevance”, explains Bruno Mineiro, Director of Client Management at Twintex. This company’s investment includes the integration of new machines, some of which are unique in the world, but guarantees environmental concerns have not been sidelined. Twintex’ objective is to continue the effort to reduce emissions, until an infinitely sustainable system is achieved. To this end, they will continue to invest in the ECOLife concept and re-inventing itself in order to generate greater efficiency. Bruno Mineiro points out that, the factory has been producing 55% of its electricity through photovoltaic panels since 2013 and has already managed to reduce 60% of its emissions since 2010.

Twintex’ objective is to continue the effort to reduce emissions, until an infinitely sustainable system is achieved.

At the entrance, where more than 400 workers pass by every day, you can read the sentence “This is where the best team in the world comes in every day!”. Bruno Mineiro believes that a happy, competent and specialised team is at the core of a successful company. That is why, in addition to being the biggest employer in the region, Twintex stands out for its socially responsible measures which include legal support, training and professional up-skilling as well as offering medical checks and health discounts for employees and their families.

Twintex’ business plan also includes strengthening its proximity to the creative direction departments of its clients, in order to co-create new exclusive designs. Regarding production efficiency, the company also intends to strengthen its strategic partnerships, both with very specialised weavers and with satellite textile and clothing companies in the central and northern regions of Portugal. This partnership scheme complements the internal production in about 60% of international sales.

THE REBIRTH OF TEXTILES AT RIOPELE

Close to its 100th anniversary, Riopele shows no signs of slowing down, quite the contrary. With a monthly capacity of 180 tons of thread and 700 thousand metres of fabric, it continues to stand out as a leader in forecasting and creating trends for fashion collections. Recognised by brands and designers worldwide as an opinion leader, it vertically integrates the entire production cycle, from raw materials and fabric development to the manufacture and delivery of the final piece.

José Alexandre Oliveira highlights the successful path taken by more than 1,100 employees in the 140,000 square metre unit. In addition to the quality and creativity to which the European, American and Asian markets are accustomed, this producer has exceeded expectations when it comes to sustainability and currently the spinning mill uses only sustainable raw material, especially recycled polyester and viscose.

In addition to the efforts dedicated to the circular economy and the recycling and reuse of water, Riopele recently developed a mega field of photovoltaic panels.

Starting from the pioneering concept “Rebirth of Textiles”, José Alexandre Oliveira highlights the Tenowa brand, a project that recycles and reuses waste from the textile and agri-food industries, transforming them into new fibres, threads and fabrics. The commitment to reduce the ecological footprint doesn’t stop there. In addition to the efforts dedicated to the circular economy and the recycling and reuse of water, Riopele recently developed a mega field of photovoltaic panels. The investment represents a saving of 14% in electricity and an annual emission reduction of 689 tons of CO2.

“The next step is to renew the machinery and improve the dyeing and finishing processes”, José Alexandre Oliveira explains. He promises that Riopele will continue “innovating and making its contribution to a cleaner and more ecological textile industry, which promotes the responsible use of natural resources”. This lively conversation ends on a more serious note: “Both companies and the final consumer must look at sustainability with great responsibility and contribute individually to have a more positive impact on our planet”. ♥